Angel’s Crest | chossclimbers.com

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Shirley leading the spectacular and friendly Angel Crack – pitch 2 of Angel’s Crest (July 2012).

Third trip up I5 in a week. This time we end up in Squamish at 1am-ish on Saturday morning. A quick sleep in the back of the pick up and we’re at the base of Angel’s Crest (13-pitch 5.10b) at about 8am. What a cluster f..!! We get up one pitch only to find 4 or 5 parties queuing up for Angel Crack and 2 more parties bailing. We wait but are already thinking about breakfast in town. Seeing how things are moving (or rather not) we bail. Seems every route has multiple parties on it. We kill the day scoping out approaches to a few things we want to try later in the summer.

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Shirley nearing the top of the lower of the Acrophobe Towers (and the rap off point; July 2012).

Though we were hoping to be home by then, nevertheless Sunday morning we get back to the base of the route to find only one party on the first, tree pitch. The two guys from Seattle are moving well and the four of us top out by noon:30…right before the route starts baking in the hot summer sun. In summary it was a pretty decent route we thought. More fun than it looked on the topo but do prepare yourself for longish sections of hiking and much low-5th class terrain (and some tree climbing beyond the first pitch). The technical sections were fun, especially the pitch 2 Angel Crack (which Shirley commandeered as her lead) though a 5.9 groove pitch (OW bypass) was soaked and slimy. Home later that evening feeling pretty stoked about our new granite playground.

Photos

The Chief as seen from the main drag in Squamish (July 2012).

The Sheriff’s Badge on the Chief. Angel’s Crest route (13 pitch 5.10b) climbs the left-side ridge of The Badge (July 2012).

The memorable pitch 1 (variation) of Angel’s Crest…some bouldery moves will gain you the lowest branch. Then it’s 50-60 feet of good old tree climbing (July 2012).

Shirley leading the spectacular and friendly Angel Crack – pitch 2 of Angel’s Crest (July 2012).

The start of the crux pitch (#3 and rated 10b) of Angel’s Crest (July 2012).

Leading the “double ramps” (5.10a) of pitch 7 of Angel’s Crest (July 2012).

The spectacular looking off-width of pitch 8…we did the chickenshit 5.9 groove variation to the right (it was wet & slimy though…points in our favor). The OW would indeed take some large gear (largest cams down low and likely big bros up higher…I’m guesstimating).

Shirley and the totem pole (a memorial to a fallen climber apparently) on the forest hike preceding the Acrophobe Towers on Angel’s Crest (July 2012).

Starting the Acrophobe Towers traverse (pitch 9) of Angel’s Crest. The remaining pitches (most) arevisible in the background (July 2012).

Shirley nearing the top of the lower of the Acrophobe Towers (and the rap off point; July 2012).

Following pitch 9 of Angel’s Crest – a traverse of the distinct looking Acrophobe Towers (July 2012).

Leading another brushy pitch (this is #10) high on Angel’s Crest (July 2012).

Shirley on the Whaleback arete of pitch 11. Acrophobe Towers (pitch 9) are below (July 2012).

View of Squamish from high up on Angel’s Crest. There’s a sea plane in the upper right corner (July 2012).

Pitch 12 of Angel’s Crest. Read somewhere that it might be the crux of the route but it certainly did not feel that way (straightforward hand crack with many rests; July 2012).

Shirley atop pitch 12 of Angel’s Crest with the town of Squamish, BC in the background (and Mount Garibaldi; July 2012).

The awkward crawl start to the 13th and final pitch of Angel’s Crest (easy dihedral/chimney lies beyond; July 2012).

Looking back towards Shirley at the belay atop pitch 12 (July 2012).

Just above the top-out point of the Angel’s Crest on Chief’s Middle Summit. Mount Garibaldi is visible to the north (July 2012).

Shirley starrting the hike down from the Middle Summit of The Chief. South Summit and the Howe Sound are visible (July 2012).

Shirley swimming against the never ending hiker current on the hike down from the MIddle Summit (July 2012).

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